Limited Palette Color Mixing Guide

Ultramarine • Burnt Umber • Quinacridone Red • Cadmium Yellow • Yellow Ochre • White • Chromatic Black

⚠️ IMPORTANT: About These Color Formulas

These are STARTING POINTS, not exact recipes - Paint mixing is analog. Brands vary, pigment load varies, even batches vary.
The visual colors shown are APPROXIMATIONS - Your actual mixed paint may look slightly different. Always test on scrap paper first.
Ratios matter enormously - "Touch of" means about 1/4 part. "More" means roughly double. Adjust to taste.
Mix terminology:
- TINT = Base color + White (makes it lighter)
- SHADE = Base color + Black (makes it darker)
- TONE = Base color + Gray (makes it muted/neutralized)
Always mix MORE than you need - It's nearly impossible to match a color exactly if you run out.
Test and adjust - Start with the formula, then tweak. Too purple? Add yellow. Too dull? Add more pure color.

🎨 Gamblin Paint-Specific Mixing Notes

Your Gamblin paints have these characteristics that affect mixing:

Quinacridone Red (PR209) - STRONG BUT MANAGEABLE
- Strong tinting power, but more controllable than Quinacridone Red
- Transparent and slightly staining
- True warm red - makes CLEAN, BRIGHT ORANGES with yellow!
- When formulas say "1 part Quin Red" you can use closer to that amount, but still start conservative
- Mix small amounts first - still powerful but won't overpower like quin red did
Ultramarine Blue (PB29) - Strong but manageable
- Semi-transparent, good tinting strength
- Has a slightly warm/reddish undertone (important for greens and purples)
Cadmium Yellow (PY37) - Opaque powerhouse
- Very opaque, excellent covering power
- Warm yellow - leans slightly orange
- Medium tinting strength
Yellow Ochre (PY42) - The workhorse
- Semi-opaque, earthy
- Great for neutralizing without over-dulling
- Weaker tinting strength than pure pigments
Burnt Umber (PBr7) - The moderator
- Semi-transparent, warming and darkening
- Great for toning down colors without muddying
- Use sparingly - easier to add more than remove
Titanium White (PW6) - Very opaque
- Strongest opaque white, excellent coverage
- Cools and dulls colors when added
- Use generously in tints

✅ QUINACRIDONE RED ADVANTAGE: Unlike Quinacridone Red, Quinacridone Red makes CLEAN, BRIGHT oranges when mixed with yellow! This is a game-changer for your palette. Still start with small amounts, but it's much more forgiving.

Ultramarine

Cool blue

Burnt Umber

Dark brown

Quinacridone Red

Warm true red

Cadmium Yellow

Warm yellow

Yellow Ochre

Earth yellow

Titanium White

Opaque white

Chromatic Black

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber

Two-Color Mixes: Primaries

Greens

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow

Foliage, grass, cool shadows. More blue = cooler green; more yellow = warmer green

Oranges

Quinacridone Red + Cadmium Yellow

CLEAN, BRIGHT oranges! Quin Red makes excellent oranges with yellow.

Purples/Violets

Ultramarine + Quinacridone Red

Good purples. More blue = violet; more red = red-purple

Earth Tones & Neutrals

Warm Browns

Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre

Bark, leather, warm wood tones

Golden Browns

Burnt Umber + Cadmium Yellow

Autumn leaves, golden hour light

Reddish Browns

Burnt Umber + Quinacridone Red

Terracotta, brick, dark shadows on skin

Cool Grays

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber

Storm clouds, cool shadows, atmospheric distance

Warm Grays

Burnt Umber + touch of Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre

Stone, concrete, neutral backgrounds

Skin Tones Across Ethnicities

Important: These are starting points, not rules. Every person's skin is unique with individual undertones, regional variations, and lighting conditions. Always observe and mix for the specific person you're painting.

Very Fair Skin (Northern European, East Asian)

Base Tone

White + Yellow Ochre + tiny touch Quin Red

Very light, cool-toned base. Add more yellow ochre for warmth.

Highlights

White + tiniest Cadmium Yellow + micro Quin Red

Forehead, nose bridge, cheekbones. Almost pure white with warmth.

Mid-tones

Yellow Ochre + White + Quin Red (equal parts ochre/white)

Cheeks, around nose, transition areas.

Shadows

Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + touch Ultramarine + White

Under chin, eye sockets, neck shadows. Cool but not gray.

Light Skin (European, Light Asian, Light Latin American)

Base Tone

Yellow Ochre + White + Quin Red (more white than ochre)

Warm peachy base. Standard "light" skin starting point.

Highlights

Base + White + tiny Cadmium Yellow

Catching light on forehead, nose, chin.

Mid-tones

Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + touch Burnt Umber + White

Cheeks, ears, neck. Warmer than base.

Shadows

Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + Ultramarine + less White

Eye sockets, under nose, jaw line. Cool shadows.

Medium Skin (Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, Asian, Hispanic)

Base Tone

Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + touch Burnt Umber + White

Rich, warm base. Balance ochre and quin red equally.

Highlights

Base + White + tiny Cadmium Yellow

Warm highlights on prominent features.

Mid-tones

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + Quin Red + touch White

Warm transitions, sides of face, neck.

Shadows

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + Ultramarine + touch Yellow Ochre

Deep shadows. More umber than previous skin tones.

Olive Skin (Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, South Asian)

Base Tone

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + touch Ultramarine + Quin Red + White

Greenish-yellow undertone. Key is the blue touch for olive.

Highlights

Base + White + tiny Yellow Ochre

Maintain the olive undertone in highlights.

Mid-tones

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + Quin Red + touch Ultramarine

Richer, more saturated than base.

Shadows

Burnt Umber + Ultramarine + Quin Red + Yellow Ochre

Greenish-gray shadows. More ultramarine than other skin tones.

Tan/Brown Skin (African, Afro-Caribbean, South Asian, Indigenous)

Base Tone

Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + touch White

Rich brown base. More umber than ochre.

Highlights

Base + Yellow Ochre + White + tiny Cadmium Yellow

Warm, golden highlights. Don't over-lighten.

Mid-tones

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + Yellow Ochre (more umber)

Deep, rich transitions.

Shadows

Burnt Umber + Ultramarine + Quin Red

Deep, warm shadows. Chromatic black base with warmth.

Deep Brown Skin (African, Afro-Caribbean, South Asian)

Base Tone

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + touch Yellow Ochre + tiny White

Deep, rich base. Minimal white to avoid chalkiness.

Highlights

Base + Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + White

Warm, glowing highlights. Don't lighten too much.

Mid-tones

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + touch Ultramarine

Rich, saturated mid-tones between base and shadow.

Shadows

Burnt Umber + Ultramarine + Quin Red (chromatic black + warmth)

Very deep but not flat black. Keep it warm.

Very Deep Skin (Dark African, Afro-Caribbean)

Base Tone

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + Ultramarine + touch Yellow Ochre

Very deep, almost approaching chromatic black. Keep warm undertone.

Highlights

Base + Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + touch White

Rich, warm highlights. Critical for showing form and dimension.

Mid-tones

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + Ultramarine (equal parts)

Transitional tone. Keep it rich, not flat.

Shadows

Chromatic Black (Ultramarine + Burnt Umber) + tiny Quin Red

Deepest shadows. Chromatic black keeps it alive, not dead.

Adjusting for Undertones (All Skin Tones)

Cool Undertone

Add more Quinacridone Red + tiny Ultramarine to your base

Pinkish cast. Common in fair to medium skin. More crimson, less ochre.

Warm Undertone

Add more Yellow Ochre + touch Cadmium Yellow to your base

Golden/peachy cast. Add more yellow, less crimson.

Neutral Undertone

Balance Yellow Ochre and Quin Red equally

Neither pink nor golden. Most balanced mix.

Olive Undertone

Add tiny Ultramarine + more Yellow Ochre to base

Greenish-yellow cast. Blue is key for olive tone.

Professional Skin Tone Mixing Tips

Never use pure white for highlights on dark skin - It creates a chalky, unnatural look. Always add warm colors to white.
Shadows on skin are never gray - Use chromatic black (ultramarine + burnt umber) with warm additions (quin red, ochre).
Study reflected light - Skin picks up surrounding colors. Add environment colors to shadows.
Blood shows through - Ears, nose, cheeks, lips have more quin red for translucency.
Value is more important than hue - Get the light/dark relationships right first, adjust color second.
Mix more than you think - Have at least 5 values ready: highlight, light, mid, shadow, deep shadow.
Darker skin needs MORE color - Don't muddy it by adding too much black or white. Keep it rich and saturated.
Test on neutral gray paper - Helps you see the true color without influence from white canvas.
Regional variations - Northern Europeans tend cooler; Mediterranean warmer; East Asians often yellow-based; etc.
Age affects skin tone - Younger skin has more pink/red; older skin becomes more yellow/gray.

Range of Greens

Cool Green

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow (more blue)

Evergreens, deep foliage, cool shadows in grass

Warm Green

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow (more yellow)

Spring leaves, grass in sunlight

Olive Green

Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre

Dried foliage, olive trees, muted vegetation

Sage Green

Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre + touch of Burnt Umber

Eucalyptus, sage, weathered plants

Dark Forest Green

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + touch of Yellow Ochre

Deep shadows in forests, pine trees

Complex Three-Color Mixes: Full Value Range

Each color family below shows: Highlight (+ white), Base color, Mid-tone (more saturated), and Shadow (+ chromatic black). This gives you the complete value range for any subject.

Orange Family

Peach (Highlight)

Cadmium Yellow + Quin Red + Burnt Umber + White

Light peachy tone. Sunset highlights, fruit highlights.

Burnt Orange (Base)

Cadmium Yellow + Quin Red + touch Burnt Umber

Autumn colors, pottery, warm sunsets, pumpkins.

Deep Orange (Mid-tone)

More Quin Red + Cad Yellow + Burnt Umber

Richer, more saturated. Terracotta, rust.

Orange Shadow

Base + Chromatic Black (Ultramarine + Burnt Umber)

Shadows on orange objects, dark rust, clay shadows.

Bright Yellow Family (Cadmium Yellow Based)

Pale Yellow (Tint)

1 part Cadmium Yellow + 4 parts White

Very light, delicate. Daisies, light fabrics, subtle highlights.

Cadmium Yellow (Base)

Pure Cadmium Yellow (straight from tube)

Warm, opaque yellow. Sunflowers, lemons, bright accents.

Deep Yellow (Tone)

Cadmium Yellow + tiny touch Yellow Ochre

Richer, slightly earthier. Golden hour light, ripe fruit.

Yellow Shadow

Cad Yellow + 1/4 part Ultramarine + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Shadows on yellow objects. Use purple complement for cooler shadows.

Earth Yellow Family (Yellow Ochre Based)

Cream (Tint)

1 part Yellow Ochre + 3 parts White

Warm cream. Highlights on skin, aged paper, soft backgrounds.

Yellow Ochre (Base)

Pure Yellow Ochre (straight from tube)

Earthy yellow. Gold, wheat, earth, foundation for skin tones.

Deep Ochre (Tone)

Yellow Ochre + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Rich gold-brown. Dried grass, autumn fields, warm earth.

Ochre Shadow

Yellow Ochre + 1/2 part Burnt Umber + 1/4 part Ultramarine

Dark warm shadows. Deep earth, shadow on warm objects.

Golden Yellow Family

Pale Gold (Tint)

1 part Cad Yellow + 1 part Yellow Ochre + 3 parts White

Soft golden highlights. Blonde hair highlights, gentle warmth.

Golden Yellow (Base)

2 parts Cadmium Yellow + 1 part Yellow Ochre

Rich gold. Honey, golden hour, warm metal accents.

Deep Gold (Tone)

2 parts Cad Yellow + 1 part Yellow Ochre + TINY Quin Red (Gamblin warning!)

Orange-gold. Amber, warm metal, sunset glow. Add quin red DROP by DROP.

Gold Shadow

Golden base + 1/4 part Burnt Umber + tiny Ultramarine

Shadows on gold objects, metallic shadows.

Yellow-Green Family

Pale Yellow-Green (Tint)

2 parts Cad Yellow + 1/2 part Ultramarine + 2 parts White

Spring greens, new growth, gentle foliage.

Chartreuse (Base)

3 parts Cadmium Yellow + 1 part Ultramarine

Bright yellow-green. Spring leaves in sun, lime tones.

Olive Yellow-Green (Tone)

2 parts Yellow Ochre + 1 part Ultramarine + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Muted spring green. Dried grass turning green, subdued foliage.

Dark Yellow-Green Shadow

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + Burnt Umber (equal parts)

Deep shadows in yellow-green foliage, forest shadows.

Blue Family (Ultramarine Based)

Sky Blue (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 4 parts White

Clear sky, distant water, gentle blue highlights.

Light Blue (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 2 parts White

Medium sky, blue fabrics, mid-tone blues.

Ultramarine (Base)

Pure Ultramarine (straight from tube)

Deep blue. Ocean, dramatic skies, rich blue accents.

Deep Navy (Shade)

Ultramarine + 1/2 part Chromatic Black (more ultra than umber)

Night sky, deep ocean, darkest blue shadows.

Muted Blue Family (Blue + Brown)

Pale Blue-Gray (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 1/4 part Burnt Umber + 4 parts White

Soft gray-blue. Overcast sky, atmospheric distance.

Slate Blue (Base)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Burnt Umber

Muted blue. Denim, cool stone, overcast water.

Deep Slate (Tone)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Burnt Umber + tiny Quin Red

Deeper muted blue. Storm clouds, cool shadows.

Dark Slate Shadow

Chromatic Black (more Ultramarine) + tiny Quin Red

Very deep cool shadows, night scenes.

Blue-Green/Teal Family

Pale Aqua (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 1/2 part Cad Yellow + 4 parts White

Very pale blue-green. Muted aqua, soft water tones.

Teal (Base)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Cadmium Yellow

Muted teal. Cool water, patina, atmospheric blue-green.

Deep Teal (Tone)

2 parts Ultra + 1 part Cad Yellow + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Rich blue-green. Deep water, aged copper, forest depths.

Dark Teal Shadow

Chromatic Black + 1/4 part Cad Yellow (more Ultra in black)

Deepest blue-green shadows, ocean depths.

Purple/Violet Family

Lavender (Tint)

1 part Quin Red + 1 part Ultramarine + 3 parts White

Pale purple. Lilacs, distant mountains, atmospheric. This is a TINT (color + white).

Purple (Base Color)

1 part Quin Red + 1 part Ultramarine (adjust to get desired purple hue)

Pure purple base. Mix this first, then create tints/shades from it. More red = warmer; more blue = cooler.

Deep Purple (Tone)

Purple base (above) + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Muted, richer purple. This is a TONE (dulled with brown). Grapes, eggplant, rich fabrics.

Purple Shadow (Shade)

Purple base + 1 part Chromatic Black (Ultramarine + Burnt Umber, 1:1)

This is a SHADE (darkened with black). Deepest shadows on purple objects.

Green Family

Mint/Pale Green (Highlight)

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow + White

Spring leaves, pale foliage, gentle greens.

Teal-Gray (Base)

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow + Burnt Umber

Muted green. Patina, distant foliage, atmospheric.

Forest Green (Mid-tone)

More Ultramarine + Cad Yellow + Burnt Umber

Deeper foliage, evergreens, rich greens.

Deep Green Shadow

Base + Chromatic Black + touch Yellow Ochre

Deep forest shadows, darkest foliage.

Red/Pink Family (Quinacridone Red Based)

Pale Pink (Tint)

GAMBLIN: TINY Quin Red (1/4 part) + 4 parts White - add more quin red drop by drop

Very delicate pink. Blush, cherry blossoms, gentle highlights.

Rose Pink (Tint)

GAMBLIN: 1/2 part Quin Red + 3 parts White

Medium pink. Roses, skin undertones, warm accents.

Quinacridone Red (Base)

Pure Quinacridone Red (straight from tube)

Cool red. Deep roses, wine, blood, dramatic accents.

Deep Crimson (Shade)

Quinacridone Red + 1/2 part Chromatic Black

Dark wine red. Deep shadows on red, burgundy, maroon.

Warm Red Family (Quin Red + Yellow)

Peach/Coral (Tint)

GAMBLIN: 1/4 part Quin Red + 1 part Cad Yellow + 3 parts White

Warm peachy pink. Skin highlights, coral, sunset tints.

Vermillion (Base)

GAMBLIN: 1 part Quin Red + 1 part Cadmium Yellow (adjust to taste)

Warm red-orange. Tomatoes, warm reds, fire. Warmer than pure quin red.

Deep Warm Red (Tone)

Quin Red + Cad Yellow + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Muted warm red. Brick, clay pots, earthy reds.

Warm Red Shadow

Quin Red + Yellow Ochre + 1/2 part Chromatic Black

Deep warm shadows. Shadows on red-brown objects.

Brown Family (Burnt Umber Based)

Light Brown (Tint)

1 part Burnt Umber + 3 parts White

Warm beige. Light wood, parchment, soft neutrals.

Burnt Umber (Base)

Pure Burnt Umber (straight from tube)

Dark warm brown. Tree bark, rich earth, shadows.

Golden Brown (Tone)

2 parts Burnt Umber + 1 part Yellow Ochre

Warm medium brown. Wood, leather, autumn leaves.

Deep Brown (Shade)

Burnt Umber + 1/2 part Chromatic Black

Very dark brown. Deep wood, near-black shadows with warmth.

Cool Brown Family (Umber + Blue)

Cool Taupe (Tint)

1 part Burnt Umber + 1/4 part Ultramarine + 3 parts White

Cool neutral beige. Weathered stone, cool shadows on beige.

Gray-Brown (Base)

2 parts Burnt Umber + 1 part Ultramarine

Cool brown. Hair, cool earth, weathered wood.

Deep Gray-Brown (Tone)

Equal parts Burnt Umber + Ultramarine + tiny Yellow Ochre

Cool dark brown. Shadows on brown, cool earth.

Cool Dark Brown (Shade)

Chromatic Black (Ultra + Umber 1:1) + tiny Yellow Ochre

Coolest brown shadow. Almost black but maintains brown quality.

Cool Green Family (Blue-Heavy Greens)

Pale Cool Green (Tint)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Cad Yellow + 4 parts White

Pale mint-ish green. Soft foliage, gentle backgrounds.

Cool Green (Base)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Cadmium Yellow

Blue-leaning green. Evergreens, deep foliage, cool grass.

Deep Cool Green (Tone)

2 parts Ultra + 1 part Cad Yellow + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

Rich forest green. Pine trees, deep shadows in foliage.

Dark Cool Green Shadow

Chromatic Black + 1/4 part Cad Yellow (more Ultra in black)

Deepest forest shadows, dark evergreen shadows.

Warm Green Family (Yellow-Heavy Greens)

Pale Warm Green (Tint)

3 parts Cad Yellow + 1 part Ultramarine + 3 parts White

Light yellow-green. Spring leaves, new growth.

Warm Green (Base)

3 parts Cadmium Yellow + 1 part Ultramarine

Yellow-leaning green. Grass in sunlight, spring foliage.

Deep Warm Green (Tone)

2 parts Yellow Ochre + 1 part Ultramarine

Earthy olive-green. Summer grass, muted foliage.

Dark Warm Green Shadow

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + 1/2 part Burnt Umber

Warm dark green shadows, dried vegetation shadows.

Rust/Copper Family

Pale Rust (Tint)

GAMBLIN: 1/4 part Quin Red + 1 part Yellow Ochre + 3 parts White

Light peachy-rust. Faded terracotta, soft copper tones.

Rust (Base)

GAMBLIN: 1/2 part Quin Red + 1 part Yellow Ochre + 1/4 part Burnt Umber

True rust color. Oxidized metal, autumn, clay.

Deep Rust (Tone)

Equal parts Quin Red + Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber

Rich rust-brown. Old metal, deep clay, brick.

Dark Rust Shadow

Rust base + 1/2 part Chromatic Black

Deepest rust shadows, aged metal shadows.

Pink-Brown/Dusty Rose Family

Pale Dusty Pink (Tint)

GAMBLIN: TINY Quin Red + 1/2 part Yellow Ochre + 4 parts White

Very soft pink-beige. Vintage tones, gentle skin.

Dusty Rose (Base)

GAMBLIN: 1/4 part Quin Red + 1 part Yellow Ochre + 1 part White

Muted pink-brown. Vintage roses, faded fabrics, skin mid-tones.

Rose Brown (Tone)

GAMBLIN: 1/2 part Quin Red + 1 part Burnt Umber + 1/2 part Yellow Ochre

Deeper dusty rose. Aged flowers, warm neutrals, skin shadows.

Deep Rose Brown Shadow

Rose brown base + 1/2 part Chromatic Black

Dark warm shadows, deep vintage tones.

Violet-Brown/Mauve Family

Pale Mauve (Tint)

GAMBLIN: 1/4 part Quin Red + 1/2 part Ultramarine + 1/4 part Burnt Umber + 3 parts White

Soft purple-gray. Atmospheric haze, gentle shadows.

Mauve (Base)

GAMBLIN: 1/2 part Quin Red + 1 part Ultramarine + 1/2 part Burnt Umber

Muted purple-brown. Vintage flowers, cool shadows on warm objects.

Deep Mauve (Tone)

Equal parts Quin Red + Ultramarine + Burnt Umber

Rich muted purple-brown. Aged fabrics, complex shadows.

Violet-Brown Shadow

Mauve base + 1/2 part Chromatic Black (more Ultramarine)

Cool deep shadows, near-black with purple cast.

Warm Gray Family

Very Light Warm Gray (Tint)

1 part Burnt Umber + tiny Ultramarine + 5 parts White

Almost white warm gray. Light clouds, soft backgrounds.

Light Warm Gray (Tint)

1 part Burnt Umber + 1/4 part Ultramarine + 3 parts White

Warm light gray. Stone, concrete, warm shadows.

Medium Warm Gray (Base)

2 parts Burnt Umber + 1 part Ultramarine + 1 part White

Mid-value warm gray. Weathered wood, warm neutrals.

Dark Warm Gray (Shade)

Chromatic Black (more Burnt Umber) + tiny Yellow Ochre

Deep warm gray. Dark stone, warm near-black shadows.

Cool Gray Family

Very Light Cool Gray (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + tiny Burnt Umber + 5 parts White

Almost white cool gray. Overcast sky, cool highlights.

Light Cool Gray (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 1/4 part Burnt Umber + 3 parts White

Cool light gray. Clouds, mist, cool stone.

Medium Cool Gray (Base)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Burnt Umber + 1 part White

Mid-value cool gray. Storm clouds, cool shadows.

Dark Cool Gray (Shade)

Chromatic Black (more Ultramarine) + no additions

Deep cool gray. Night shadows, cool near-black.

Neutral Gray Family (Perfectly Balanced)

Very Light Neutral Gray (Tint)

Equal parts Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + 5 parts White

Nearly white neutral. Soft backgrounds, gentle neutrals.

Light Neutral Gray (Tint)

Equal parts Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + 3 parts White

Light neutral gray. Neutral backgrounds, soft shadows.

Medium Neutral Gray (Base)

Equal parts Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + 1 part White

Perfect middle gray. Value studies, neutral objects.

Dark Neutral Gray (Shade)

Chromatic Black (Ultramarine + Burnt Umber 1:1) - pure

True chromatic black. Darkest neutral, living black.

Greenish-Gray Family (For Atmospheric Effects)

Pale Green-Gray (Tint)

1 part Ultramarine + 1/2 part Yellow Ochre + 1/2 part Burnt Umber + 4 parts White

Soft greenish-gray. Atmospheric haze, misty greens.

Green-Gray (Base)

2 parts Ultramarine + 1 part Yellow Ochre + 1 part Burnt Umber

Muted green-gray. Weathered wood, aged copper, moss.

Deep Green-Gray (Tone)

Chromatic Black + 1/4 part Yellow Ochre

Dark muted green. Shadows in foliage, aged surfaces.

Dark Green-Gray Shadow

Chromatic Black (equal parts) + tiny Cad Yellow

Deepest greenish shadows, near-black with green cast.

Blue-Gray Family

Pale Blue-Gray (Highlight)

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + touch Quin Red + White

Atmospheric haze, overcast sky, cool highlights.

Blue-Gray (Base)

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + touch Quin Red

Stormy skies, water, cool atmospheric effects.

Slate Blue (Mid-tone)

More Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + tiny Quin Red

Deeper water, storm clouds, cool stone.

Deep Blue-Gray Shadow

Chromatic Black (more Ultramarine) + touch Quin Red

Night sky, deep water, cool deep shadows.

Earth Tone Family

Sand/Cream (Highlight)

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + tiny Quin Red + White

Light sand, wheat, warm highlights on earth.

Buff (Base)

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + tiny Quin Red

Sand, parchment, warm stone, dried grass.

Raw Sienna (Mid-tone)

More Yellow Ochre + Quin Red + Burnt Umber

Clay pots, rich earth, warm mid-tones.

Earth Shadow

Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre + Chromatic Black

Dark earth, deep shadows on warm objects.

Olive/Khaki Family

Pale Olive (Highlight)

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + tiny Quin Red + White

Soft greens, gentle foliage, muted highlights.

Khaki (Base)

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + touch Quin Red

Military green, dried grass, muted foliage.

Olive Drab (Mid-tone)

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + Burnt Umber

Deeper olive, dried plants, weathered green.

Dark Olive Shadow

Base + Chromatic Black + touch Yellow Ochre

Deep shadows on olive objects, dark foliage.

Mauve/Purple-Gray Family

Pale Mauve (Highlight)

Quin Red + Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre + White

Soft dusty pink-purple. Vintage tones, gentle shadows.

Mauve (Base)

Quin Red + Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre

Dusty flowers, shadows on purple, vintage tones.

Deep Mauve (Mid-tone)

More Quin Red + Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre

Richer purple-gray, aged flowers, shadows.

Purple-Gray Shadow

Base + Chromatic Black (more Ultramarine)

Cool deep shadows, night shadows, purple objects.

Venetian Red/Terracotta Family

Pale Terracotta (Highlight)

Quin Red + Yellow Ochre + tiny Ultramarine + White

Light brick, dusty rose, warm highlights.

Venetian Red (Base)

Quin Red + Yellow Ochre + touch Ultramarine

Brick, terracotta, warm earth, clay.

Red-Brown (Mid-tone)

More Quin Red + Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre

Deep terracotta, red clay, rich earth.

Red-Brown Shadow

Base + Chromatic Black (more Burnt Umber)

Dark shadows on red objects, deep clay.

Sepia/Brown-Gray Family

Light Sepia (Highlight)

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + tiny Ultramarine + White

Antique tones, old paper, vintage highlights.

Sepia (Base)

Burnt Umber + Quin Red + touch Ultramarine

Antique tones, old photographs, dark wood.

Deep Sepia (Mid-tone)

More Burnt Umber + Quin Red + Ultramarine

Aged wood, antique shadows, rich browns.

Sepia Shadow

Chromatic Black (equal parts) + touch Quin Red

Deepest antique shadows, old wood grain.

Working with Value Ranges

Mix all four values before starting - Highlight, base, mid-tone, shadow. This ensures consistency.
Highlights aren't just base + white - Often need more yellow or warmth to look natural.
Shadows aren't just darker base - Add chromatic black and consider cool vs warm shadows.
Mid-tones are often more saturated - Not just between highlight and shadow—richer color.
Temperature shifts in shadows - Warm objects have cool shadows; cool objects have warm shadows.
Use five values minimum - Highlight, light, mid, shadow, deep shadow for dimensional work.
Test transitions - Make sure adjacent values blend smoothly without jumps.
Keep chromatic black handy - Much better than pure black for shadows.

How to Test and Adjust Color Formulas

Start small: Mix a test batch with pea-sized amounts first. Don't waste paint!
Use a palette knife: Thoroughly mix until completely homogeneous—no streaks.
Test on white paper: Brush some out on scrap paper or canvas. Let it dry (colors lighten as they dry!).
Compare in good light: Natural daylight is best. Artificial light changes color perception.
Keep notes: Write down your actual ratios. "2 parts quin red, 1 part ultra, tiny burnt umber" helps you recreate it.
Common adjustments:
- Too bright/saturated? Add complement color or burnt umber
- Too dull/muddy? Add more of the pure colors, less brown
- Too warm? Add cool colors (ultramarine, quin red)
- Too cool? Add warm colors (cad yellow, yellow ochre, burnt umber)
- Too light? Add chromatic black gradually, NOT more pigment
- Too dark? Can't fix easily—start over with more white from the beginning
Make enough: Once you get it right, mix 3-4x more than you think you'll need.
Store properly: Keep mixed colors in airtight containers or wrapped in plastic wrap. Label them!

Three-Color Mixes + White (Muted Pastels)

Dusty Rose

Quinacridone Red + Yellow Ochre + touch of Ultramarine + White

Vintage fabrics, faded flowers, soft skin shadows

Sage

Ultramarine + Yellow Ochre + touch of Quin Red + White

Eucalyptus, soft greens, gentle foliage

Lilac Gray

Ultramarine + Quin Red + touch of Yellow Ochre + White

Distant lavender, cool atmospheric haze

Ivory

Yellow Ochre + tiny Quin Red + tiny Ultramarine + White

Paper, cream, warm highlights

Warm Beige

Yellow Ochre + Burnt Umber + tiny Quin Red + White

Light sand, wheat, warm neutrals

Powder Blue

Ultramarine + touch of Burnt Umber + touch of Quin Red + White

Soft skies, delicate fabrics, cool pastels

Dusty Pink

Quinacridone Red + Yellow Ochre + touch of Burnt Umber + White

Vintage roses, blush tones, soft terracotta

Putty

Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + White

Soft neutral, plaster, weathered surfaces

Pale Olive

Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine + tiny Quin Red + White

Soft greens, gentle foliage, spring colors

Tints: Adding White

Sky Blue

Ultramarine + White

Clear skies, distant water, cool highlights

Pink

Quinacridone Red + White

Blush, cherry blossoms, sunrise/sunset

Pale Yellow

Cadmium Yellow + White

Bright highlights, light fabrics, daisies

Cream

Yellow Ochre + White

Warm highlights on skin, aged paper, sand

Tan

Burnt Umber + White

Beige tones, light wood, parchment

Mint Green

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow + White

Pale foliage, spring leaves, pastel greens

Peach

Cadmium Yellow + Quinacridone Red + White

Skin highlights, peaches, warm light

Lavender

Ultramarine + Quinacridone Red + White

Lilacs, atmospheric haze, cool shadows

Light Gray

Chromatic Black + White (Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + White)

Overcast skies, concrete, neutral tones

Shades: Adding Chromatic Black

Deep Navy

Ultramarine + Chromatic Black (more ultramarine)

Night sky, deep water, darkest shadows

Deep Crimson

Quinacridone Red + Chromatic Black

Dark wine, deep rose shadows, burgundy

Darkest Brown

Burnt Umber + Chromatic Black (more umber)

Deep earth, darkest bark, near-black shadows

Dark Olive

Yellow Ochre + Chromatic Black

Deep forest shadows, military olive

Dark Forest Green

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow + Chromatic Black

Pine shadows, deep evergreen, moss

Dark Rust

Quinacridone Red + Yellow Ochre + Chromatic Black

Oxidized metal, dark leather, aged wood

Chromatic Blacks & Near-Blacks

Cool Black

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber

Much richer than tube black. Cool shadows, night scenes

Warm Black

Quinacridone Red + Burnt Umber + touch of Ultramarine

Warm shadows, dark hair, rich darks

Greenish Black

Ultramarine + Burnt Umber + Yellow Ochre

Deep forest shadows, aged bronze

Neutral Black

All three primaries (Ultra + Quin Red + Yellow) in equal parts

True neutral dark, universal shadow base

With Expanded Palette: New Color Possibilities

These formulas assume you've added: Cadmium Red Light (warm red), Phthalo Blue (bright cool blue), Lemon Yellow (cool yellow), and Quinacridone Magenta (bright purple-red)

Vivid Orange

Cadmium Red Light + Cadmium Yellow

More yellow = lighter orange; more red = deeper orange

Bright Red

Cadmium Red Light (straight from tube)

Add tiny touch of cadmium yellow for even warmer red

Hot Pink

Quinacridone Magenta + White

More white = lighter pink; less white = intense hot pink

Magenta/Fuchsia

Quinacridone Magenta (straight) or + tiny Ultramarine

Add ultramarine for deeper purple-magenta

Cyan/Turquoise

Phthalo Blue + tiny Lemon Yellow + White

Adjust yellow amount for warmer or cooler cyan

Caribbean Blue

Phthalo Blue + Lemon Yellow + White (more white)

Balance of blue and yellow creates this tropical color

Lime Green

Lemon Yellow + tiny Phthalo Blue

Must be heavy on yellow with just a touch of blue

Bright Spring Green

Phthalo Blue + Lemon Yellow (equal parts)

Adjust ratio: more yellow = warmer; more blue = cooler

Teal/Aqua

Phthalo Blue + Lemon Yellow + White

More blue than for spring green, generous white

Lemon Yellow

Lemon Yellow (straight from tube)

Cool, acidic yellow. Add tiny white for pale lemon

Electric Purple

Quinacridone Magenta + Ultramarine + White

More magenta = redder; more ultramarine = bluer

Bright Cobalt Blue

Phthalo Blue + White (+ tiny Ultramarine)

Touch of ultramarine warms it slightly toward cobalt

Pure Orange

Cadmium Red Light + Cadmium Yellow (equal parts)

The classic secondary color at full saturation

Violet

Quinacridone Magenta + Phthalo Blue

More blue = deep violet; more magenta = purple-red

Grass Green

Phthalo Blue + Cadmium Yellow

Warmer yellow creates more natural grass green

Coral

Cadmium Red Light + Cadmium Yellow + White

More red = deeper coral; more yellow = peachy coral

Golden Yellow

Cadmium Yellow + tiny Cadmium Red Light

Just a touch of red warms cadmium yellow to gold

Sky Blue

Phthalo Blue + White + tiny Lemon Yellow

Brighter, cleaner sky than ultramarine + white

⚠️ Warning About Expanded Palettes

More colors = more decisions - You now have to choose between ultramarine and phthalo, quin red and cadmium red, etc.
Easier to create mud - Mixing complementaries from bright primaries can get muddy fast
Color harmony is harder - No automatic restraint forcing cohesion
Consider split primaries instead - Many pros use 6 colors: warm + cool versions of red, yellow, and blue
Phthalo blue is VERY strong - Use tiny amounts or it will overwhelm everything

Color Wheel & Harmony Combinations

The Color Wheel with Your Palette

Primary Colors

Yellow • Red • Blue

Mix adjacent colors for smooth transitions

This color wheel shows the spectrum you can create with your limited palette. Note how muted the colors are compared to a standard color wheel—this creates automatic harmony!

Complementary Colors (Opposite on Wheel)

Blue + Orange

Ultramarine ↔ Cadmium Yellow + Quin Red

Maximum contrast. Creates vibration when placed side by side. Mix together for neutral browns/grays.

Red + Green

Quinacridone Red ↔ Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow

Classic Christmas combo. High contrast. Mix for neutral gray-browns. Perfect for shadows on red objects.

Yellow + Purple

Cadmium Yellow ↔ Ultramarine + Quin Red

Energetic contrast. Mix for muted olive-browns. Use purple in yellow's shadows for dimension.

Analogous Colors (Neighbors on Wheel)

Yellow-Orange-Red

Cadmium Yellow → Add Quin Red gradually

Warm, harmonious. Perfect for sunsets, autumn leaves, fire. Creates smooth gradients naturally.

Red-Purple-Blue

Quin Red → Add Ultramarine gradually

Cool, regal. Twilight skies, shadows, moody atmospheres. Naturally cohesive.

Blue-Blue-Green-Green

Ultramarine → Add Cadmium Yellow gradually

Cool, peaceful. Water, forests, natural landscapes. Very calming combination.

Green-Yellow-Green-Yellow

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow → More Yellow

Fresh, spring-like. Meadows, new growth, optimistic feeling. Natural harmony.

Yellow Ochre-Brown Spectrum

Yellow Ochre → Add Burnt Umber gradually

Earthy, natural. Deserts, earth, wood, leather. Inherently harmonious neutrals.

Triadic Colors (Evenly Spaced on Wheel)

Primary Triad

Cadmium Yellow + Quinacridone Red + Ultramarine

Bold, balanced. Classic color scheme. Vibrant but harmonious. Use one as dominant, others as accents.

Secondary Triad

Orange + Green + Purple

Softer than primary triad. Balanced energy. Make one dominant to avoid chaos.

Split Complementary (One Color + Two Adjacent to Its Complement)

Blue + Yellow + Red

Ultramarine + Cadmium Yellow + Quin Red

Softer than direct complement. More versatile. Blue dominates, warm accents.

Red + Yellow + Blue

Quin Red + Cadmium Yellow + Ultramarine

Warm dominant with cool accents. Dynamic but less jarring than red-green complement.

Yellow + Purple + Blue

Cadmium Yellow + Quin Red/Ultramarine + Ultramarine

Bright with cool balance. Good for landscapes with flowers or dramatic lighting.

Orange + Green + Purple

Cad Yellow/Quin Red + Ultramarine/Cad Yellow + Ultramarine/Quin Red

Vibrant secondaries. Orange dominates with cool green-purple accents. Sophisticated balance.

Purple + Orange + Green

Quin Red/Ultramarine + Cad Yellow/Quin Red + Ultramarine/Cad Yellow

Cool purple dominant with warm-cool contrast. Dramatic and complex.

Green + Orange + Purple

Ultramarine/Cad Yellow + Cad Yellow/Quin Red + Quin Red/Ultramarine

Natural green base with vibrant warm-cool accents. Great for foliage with flowers.

Tetradic/Rectangle (Two Complementary Pairs)

Yellow-Orange-Blue-Purple

Cad Yellow + Orange + Ultramarine + Purple

Rich, complex. Needs careful balance—use one dominant, others as accents. Very dynamic.

Red-Purple-Green-Yellow

Quin Red + Purple + Green + Yellow Ochre

Bold but can be balanced. Good for complex compositions with multiple focal points.

Monochromatic (One Color + Tints/Shades)

Blue Monochrome

Ultramarine + White → Pure → + Chromatic Black

Elegant, cohesive. Perfect for moody pieces. Add slight color temperature shifts for interest.

Red Monochrome

Quin Red + White → Pure → + Chromatic Black

Dramatic, passionate. Great for portraits or emotional pieces. Very unified.

Brown Monochrome

Burnt Umber + White → Pure → + Chromatic Black

Warm, classical. Sepia-like. Perfect for vintage or earthy subjects.

Green Monochrome

Ultramarine + Cad Yellow + White → Pure → + Black

Natural, peaceful. Forest scenes, botanical studies. Inherently calming.

Color Harmony Principles

Dominance is key: Let one color dominate (60-70%), use others as secondary (20-30%) and accent (10%)
Complementary colors: Create maximum contrast and visual interest. Mix them for neutral grays/browns
Analogous colors: Naturally harmonious, easy on the eye. Great for beginners
Triadic colors: Balanced but bold. Use one as dominant to avoid visual chaos
Temperature matters: Warm colors advance, cool colors recede. Use this for depth
Saturation control: Not all colors need to be at full intensity. Mute some for sophistication
Limited palette advantage: Your muted colors make it nearly impossible to create clashing combinations!

Mixing Tips for This Palette

Start with less: You can always add more pigment, but you can't take it away. Begin with the lighter color and gradually add the darker.
White changes temperature: Adding white doesn't just lighten—it also cools most colors and reduces intensity. Mix more white than you think you'll need.
Chromatic black is your foundation: Mix ultramarine + burnt umber for your "black." This creates a rich, living dark that's far superior to tube black. Adjust the ratio for warm (more umber) or cool (more blue) darks.
No tube black needed: This palette uses chromatic black exclusively. It keeps your darks vibrant and harmonious with the rest of your painting.
Neutralize intensity: To dull any color, add its complement or a touch of burnt umber.
Temperature control: Ultramarine and quin red are cool; cadmium yellow is warm. Burnt umber and yellow ochre are earth tones that can go either way.
Tinting strength varies: Some colors are much stronger than others. Quin Red crimson and ultramarine are very powerful—add them drop by drop to lighter colors.
White equivalent: For highlights in watercolor or thinned acrylics, use highly diluted cadmium yellow + tiny touch of quin red for a warm glow.
Atmospheric perspective: Add more ultramarine and burnt umber to colors as they recede into the distance. Distant objects also need more white.
Don't over-whiten skin tones: Real skin is rarely as light as pure white. Use cream mixtures (ochre + white) as your lightest skin value.
Keep it muddy (strategically): Don't overmix! Leave some variation in your mixes for more vibrant results.
Test first: Always test your mixes on scrap paper before committing to your painting.